moonlight punch romance

그리고, 남겨진 것들

"Western cultures are obsessed with demonstrating their civilised ways - to show that they are different from, and superior to, other cultures, hence the emphasis on newness and nowness. But the technique of establishing signs of civility involves the assertion of distinctiveness against other forms of culture. Accordingly, western fashion systems relentlessly re-invent otherness, by reference to the past (historical illusions), to non- and pre-industrial cultures (folk costume and ethnic looks), and to previous moments in fashion (cyclical re-vamping of the “look” of earlier decades). The western fashion system poaches from other systems and cannibalises diverse influences in reconsituting new techniques of dress and decoration."
— Jennifer Craik, “The Face of Fashion” (1994)
POSTED: 1 month ago NOTES: 1 TAGS: #fashun #quote
collectingknowledge:

Good Fucking Design Advice poster in Professor Louise Wilson’s MA Fashion Office @ Central Saint Martins

collectingknowledge:

Good Fucking Design Advice poster in Professor Louise Wilson’s MA Fashion Office @ Central Saint Martins

POSTED: 1 month ago NOTES: 8 TAGS: #important #fashun

"Body Talk"ㅣChoi Sora by Yoo Young Kyu

"Body Talk"ㅣChoi Sora by Yoo Young Kyu

POSTED: 2 months ago NOTES: 12 TAGS: #vogue korea #choi sora
10:42

coutugh:

I find it so ironic that Bethann Hardison, as the founder of the Diversity Coalition will be awarded at CFDA to honor her efforts to improve the diversity in the fashion industry. What I don’t get is that there hasn’t been the slightest drop in the number of magazines that love to include an editorial that reeks cultural appropriation and ridiculing of native cultures. The first 4 images are just the ones that I have found to be from “tribal themed” shoots included in major magazines only this week.

Did we forget the offensive Vogue Italia March 2014 cover featuring Saskia de Brauw? Not to forget Sebastian Kim who shamelessly shot another tribal themed editorial for Vogue Australia this April after apologizing for donning a model in blackface for an editorial entitled as “African Queen” last year. Tim Walker shot a “touristic” editorial in Myanmar with Edie Campbell standing in front of the natives for W’s May issue?  

I know that there are baby steps being taken to include more POC models both on and off runway. I also am totally with Hardison, Campbell and Iman but the honorary award is only symbolic as there hasn’t been an implementation of the actual intent in the industry. Photographers and editors are still blind and have been manipulating cultures for shock effect to generate more revenues.   

The Diversity Coalition is more in the context of American and European fashion industry, but I just wanted to point out this editorial from Vogue Korea’s March issue. The title of the shoot: “Modern Africa” - “This spring’s trend keywords are vibrant colours and patterns which captures Africa’s primitive life.” 

(Source: vogueanon)

POSTED: 2 months ago NOTES: 120 TAGS: #fashun

bpb Spring/Summer 2014; photo by Kisik Pyo
"해저 생활을 하는 해군소녀의 이야기"
"a story of a navy girl living on the seabed"

bpb Spring/Summer 2014; photo by Kisik Pyo

"해저 생활을 하는 해군소녀의 이야기"

"a story of a navy girl living on the seabed"


"embody your body"
lily loves yoga
directed by ill-studio

"embody your body"

lily loves yoga

directed by ill-studio

POSTED: 2 months ago NOTES: 16 TAGS: #lily mcmenamy #i.d
"There are for any particular object (a dress, a tailored suit, a belt) three different structures, one technological, another iconic, the third verbal. These three structures do not have the same circulation pattern. The technological structure appears as a mother tongue of which the real garments derived from it are only instances of “speech.” The two other structures (iconic and verbal) are also languages, but if we believe Fashion magazines, which always claim to discuss a primary real garment, these are derived languages, “translated” from the mother tongue; they intervene as circulation relays between this mother tongue and its instances of “speech” (the real garments). In our society, the circulation of Fashion thus relies in large part on an activity of transformation: there is a transition (at least according to the order invoked by Fashion magazines) from the technological structure to the iconic and verbal structures. Yet this transition, as in all structures, can only be discontinuous: the real garment can only be transformed into “representation” by means of certain operators which we might call shifters, since they serve to transpose one structure into another, to pass, if you will, from one code to another code."
— Roland Barthes, The Fashion System (via dekonstruktivisme)
POSTED: 2 months ago NOTES: 54 TAGS: #roland barthes #quote
cotonblanc:

Phoebe Philo takes a bow after the Winter 2014 show in 798 Art District, Beijing, China

cotonblanc:

Phoebe Philo takes a bow after the Winter 2014 show in 798 Art District, Beijing, China

"The problem with problematic extends beyond the people who use it, though. More often than not, the word obscures the horrible, unethical content of whatever it sticks to. Problematic finds its way to white people who slur the n-word towards black people just as quickly as it describes someone who attempts to police someone else’s body. Neither of these people is problematic. One of them is a racist, the other shames bodies. The culture of “Your Fave Is Problematic” tends to erase these specificities. Moreover, where’s the seriousness in claiming that everyone is problematic? The blanketing claim it makes allows us to throw our hands up in resignation. “Problematic” facilitates laziness.

What we conceived originally as a descriptive tool has wrought damage of its own. This is often the case where the Internet intersects with social justice discourses. Talk around cultural appropriation is at risk for falling devoid of meaning. Checking one’s privilege, for example, has been turned into a barometer of the problem it once identified. I think we’ve reached a similar breaking point with “problematic.” Moving forward, the solution, to my mind, is more precision. Developing richer dialogues about race, class, gender and bodies means expanding the way they’re discussed. Using a word that consistently impedes that development produces more difficulty than discourse. That, if anything, is problematic."

— Erich Kessel Jr., "Problematic" Has Become Problematic 

(Source: katemess)

POSTED: 3 months ago NOTES: 204 TAGS: #quote
I am so very excited for Choi Sora
Having won Korea’s Next Top Model Season 3 like two years ago, she has scored a Cruise show, a Louis Vuitton Cruise show, and not just that but a Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquiere Cruise show.
I’m just very excited at her ongoing performance on the international stage. Seeing her in a LV show was very unexpected. Obviously there is a bias that she is a Korean model and that’s why I’m all excited, but she’s not like Soo Joo or Sung Hee, but almost like a rookie model who is probably still very much unfamiliar to many people. I wasn’t a big fan of her during KNTM, but it’s always great to see Korean models continuously getting more attention. This also shows how important KNTM is to the Korean modelling industry, and I hope this LV show really kicks off her international career (she has been walking some shows in LFW, etc, but not big brands as far as I know) and I can’t wait to see more of Sora’s face in the future (SS15?).

I am so very excited for Choi Sora

Having won Korea’s Next Top Model Season 3 like two years ago, she has scored a Cruise show, a Louis Vuitton Cruise show, and not just that but a Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquiere Cruise show.

I’m just very excited at her ongoing performance on the international stage. Seeing her in a LV show was very unexpected. Obviously there is a bias that she is a Korean model and that’s why I’m all excited, but she’s not like Soo Joo or Sung Hee, but almost like a rookie model who is probably still very much unfamiliar to many people. I wasn’t a big fan of her during KNTM, but it’s always great to see Korean models continuously getting more attention. This also shows how important KNTM is to the Korean modelling industry, and I hope this LV show really kicks off her international career (she has been walking some shows in LFW, etc, but not big brands as far as I know) and I can’t wait to see more of Sora’s face in the future (SS15?).

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