— Jennifer Craik, “The Face of Fashion” (1994)
Good Fucking Design Advice poster in Professor Louise Wilson’s MA Fashion Office @ Central Saint Martins
I find it so ironic that Bethann Hardison, as the founder of the Diversity Coalition will be awarded at CFDA to honor her efforts to improve the diversity in the fashion industry. What I don’t get is that there hasn’t been the slightest drop in the number of magazines that love to include an editorial that reeks cultural appropriation and ridiculing of native cultures. The first 4 images are just the ones that I have found to be from “tribal themed” shoots included in major magazines only this week.
Did we forget the offensive Vogue Italia March 2014 cover featuring Saskia de Brauw? Not to forget Sebastian Kim who shamelessly shot another tribal themed editorial for Vogue Australia this April after apologizing for donning a model in blackface for an editorial entitled as “African Queen” last year. Tim Walker shot a “touristic” editorial in Myanmar with Edie Campbell standing in front of the natives for W’s May issue?
I know that there are baby steps being taken to include more POC models both on and off runway. I also am totally with Hardison, Campbell and Iman but the honorary award is only symbolic as there hasn’t been an implementation of the actual intent in the industry. Photographers and editors are still blind and have been manipulating cultures for shock effect to generate more revenues.
The Diversity Coalition is more in the context of American and European fashion industry, but I just wanted to point out this editorial from Vogue Korea’s March issue. The title of the shoot: “Modern Africa” - “This spring’s trend keywords are vibrant colours and patterns which captures Africa’s primitive life.”
bpb Spring/Summer 2014; photo by Kisik Pyo
"해저 생활을 하는 해군소녀의 이야기"
"a story of a navy girl living on the seabed"
"embody your body"
lily loves yoga
directed by ill-studio
— Roland Barthes, The Fashion System (via dekonstruktivisme)
Phoebe Philo takes a bow after the Winter 2014 show in 798 Art District, Beijing, China
What we conceived originally as a descriptive tool has wrought damage of its own. This is often the case where the Internet intersects with social justice discourses. Talk around cultural appropriation is at risk for falling devoid of meaning. Checking one’s privilege, for example, has been turned into a barometer of the problem it once identified. I think we’ve reached a similar breaking point with “problematic.” Moving forward, the solution, to my mind, is more precision. Developing richer dialogues about race, class, gender and bodies means expanding the way they’re discussed. Using a word that consistently impedes that development produces more difficulty than discourse. That, if anything, is problematic."
— Erich Kessel Jr., "Problematic" Has Become Problematic
I am so very excited for Choi Sora
Having won Korea’s Next Top Model Season 3 like two years ago, she has scored a Cruise show, a Louis Vuitton Cruise show, and not just that but a Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquiere Cruise show.
I’m just very excited at her ongoing performance on the international stage. Seeing her in a LV show was very unexpected. Obviously there is a bias that she is a Korean model and that’s why I’m all excited, but she’s not like Soo Joo or Sung Hee, but almost like a rookie model who is probably still very much unfamiliar to many people. I wasn’t a big fan of her during KNTM, but it’s always great to see Korean models continuously getting more attention. This also shows how important KNTM is to the Korean modelling industry, and I hope this LV show really kicks off her international career (she has been walking some shows in LFW, etc, but not big brands as far as I know) and I can’t wait to see more of Sora’s face in the future (SS15?).