"Summer Dreaming"ㅣYeo Hye Won by Koo Bohn Chang for Vogue Korea July 2014
imagining an ethereal summer of organza, lingerie and balenciaga cape
Yi Zhang, ADAM, 2014
Issey Miyake, spring—summer 1999.
Overlength sweaters, dresses off the roll - 'a-poc' is based upon Miyake's first design concept, a piece of cloth, is a new and unique suggestion for everyday life, which goes far beyond the boundaries of fashion. It is made using an industrial knitting or weaving machine programed by a computer. This process creates continuous tubes of fabric within which lie both shape and pattern. The customer cuts sleeves and skirts exactly to the length he wants. It is an idea that totally overthrows the existing standards for making clothes.
'A-poc' is made in a sequence in which thread literally goes into a machine and re-emerges as a piece of clothing, an accessory, or even a chair. This interactive new method not only reduces leftover fabric but also permits the wearers to participate in the final step of the design of their clothing: they determine the final shape of the product. Mass production and custom-made clothing, seemingly opposing ideas, become compatible with each other through the wizardry of technology and the fire of imagination.
— Jennifer Craik, “The Face of Fashion” (1994)
Good Fucking Design Advice poster in Professor Louise Wilson’s MA Fashion Office @ Central Saint Martins
I find it so ironic that Bethann Hardison, as the founder of the Diversity Coalition will be awarded at CFDA to honor her efforts to improve the diversity in the fashion industry. What I don’t get is that there hasn’t been the slightest drop in the number of magazines that love to include an editorial that reeks cultural appropriation and ridiculing of native cultures. The first 4 images are just the ones that I have found to be from “tribal themed” shoots included in major magazines only this week.
Did we forget the offensive Vogue Italia March 2014 cover featuring Saskia de Brauw? Not to forget Sebastian Kim who shamelessly shot another tribal themed editorial for Vogue Australia this April after apologizing for donning a model in blackface for an editorial entitled as “African Queen” last year. Tim Walker shot a “touristic” editorial in Myanmar with Edie Campbell standing in front of the natives for W’s May issue?
I know that there are baby steps being taken to include more POC models both on and off runway. I also am totally with Hardison, Campbell and Iman but the honorary award is only symbolic as there hasn’t been an implementation of the actual intent in the industry. Photographers and editors are still blind and have been manipulating cultures for shock effect to generate more revenues.
The Diversity Coalition is more in the context of American and European fashion industry, but I just wanted to point out this editorial from Vogue Korea’s March issue. The title of the shoot: “Modern Africa” - “This spring’s trend keywords are vibrant colours and patterns which captures Africa’s primitive life.”
bpb Spring/Summer 2014; photo by Kisik Pyo
"해저 생활을 하는 해군소녀의 이야기"
"a story of a navy girl living on the seabed"
"embody your body"
lily loves yoga
directed by ill-studio
— Roland Barthes, The Fashion System (via dekonstruktivisme)