Anne van den Boogaard, “Infinity ‘n Shit”
“This collection is about the element of surprise, about pushing the unexpected and being alive in every way possible. The urge to wake people up arose from my frustration that today’s society’s pretty dull. Most people don’t take risks or experience highs or lows. People live safe and colorless lives. With this collection I try to pinch them. It’s is about exploring boundaries within the aesthetics of ugliness in an anomalous way.”
DEVON AOKI for Kenzo S/S 2014
Walter van Beirendonck spring / summer 1998
30 Wizzkids performed a line-dance, showing a brandnew Boyswear collection, the newly developed W.&L.T. monster-sneakers and a funny ‘variation-on-cowboy hats’ by Stephen Jones. 30 Black Beauties dressed in black with accents of green, orange and pink, with Marilyn Manson-style make-up and posing with Godzilla grace. White Trash: 30 models on high stilts (50 cm) walked with alien grace across the red square. Long white silhouettes with red and pink lighting accents. Make-up: white transparent gauze masks and gloved catsuits with Swarovski rhinestones.The girls wore maxi red hair-hats by Stephen Jones, that made this ‘prototype for the future’ even more perfect. Birds from Outer Space: 40 ballroom dancers, including 20 girls in dazzling evening dresses and classy hairdos, green-red masks and green rubber reptile gloves, 20 boys in black overalls with shiny numbers on their backs and rubber masks, performed techno-latino dances. They were joined by Walter and the entire backstage crew for a big party on the catwalk.
i-D: 40 things to remember when fashion gets too much; by James Anderson
1. Being ‘on-trend’ is a mediocre aspiration that will never make anyone remember you.
4. Words like ‘edgy’ and ‘directional’ should be used sparingly, otherwise you sound like a tacky fashion ‘expert’ off breakfast telly.
9. If you are going to blog about fashion, make sure you can string a sentence together.
16. It is better to buy one stomach-churningly expensive piece of clothing that you love - even if means you can’t pay the rent next month - rather than an array of cheap things which you just, sort-of, quite like.
35. Never, ever describe yourself as a ‘fashionista’ if you want anyone to take you seriously.
37. Don’t be worried by negative reactions to what you wear: all the best fashion statements are misunderstood or maligned at first.
38. Fashion is one of the most effective forms of instant communication and self-expression, but it doesn’t compensate for having something interesting to say.
40. Don’t believe everything you read about fashion just because it’s been published somewhere reputable: process the information and always make up your own mind.
Design by Edward Curtis (London College of Fashion)
Laura O’Grady by James Rees
Nowadays the princesses all know kung fu, and yet they’re still the same princesses. They’re still love interests, still the one girl in a team of five boys, and they’re all kind of the same. They march on screen, punch someone to show how they don’t take no shit, throw around a couple of one-liners or forcibly kiss someone because getting consent is for wimps, and then with ladylike discretion they back out of the narrative’s way.
On the posters they’re posed way in the back of the shot behind the men, in the trailers they may pout or smile or kick things, but they remain silent. Their strength lets them, briefly, dominate bystanders but never dominate the plot. It’s an anodyne, a sop, a Trojan Horse - it’s there to distract and confuse you, so you forget to ask for more."
— Sophia McDougall
Hyein Seo - “FEAR EATS THE SOUL” - Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts Third Year Bachelor Collection 2013